Join us to discuss the challenges and opportunities the Whitworth faces in acquiring and ensuring access to a textile printing archive.
In 2022, the Whitworth accepted the offer of the design archives of A. Brunnschweiler and Co/ ABC Wax. One of the last archives of its kind in the UK, these comprise about 350 archival boxes, mostly of pattern books, fabric samples, hanging samples, 35mm slides, filing cabinets of sample cards, printing blocks, around 200 A4 ringbinders and large paper designs. All representing the output of the major textile printworks in the North-West such as Calico Printers’ Association (CPA), Newton Bank, (F.W. Ashton), Broad Oak (F.W. Grafton), Church Bank (Frederick Steiner), Dinting Vale (Edmund Potter), Love Clough Printing Company, Rhodes (Salis Schwabe), Strines Printing Company, and Blue Printers (formerly of Wigan). These firms were the backbone of English export textile printing. The ABC Wax archive therefore reveals the history of British textiles made for export to African, Middle Eastern and Asian markets. It shows developments in the design processes and the technologies used, changing fashions in design, telling stories of decolonisation and economics, illustrating how the hub of manufacture shifted away from the UK during the twentieth century.
This acquisition – still in its infancy – will be a major and on-going project for the Whitworth and will involve considerable consultation. Further consultation regarding the practicalities of accessible storage and display will follow. A workshop is being planned.
This lecture will introduce the archive and the issues the gallery faces conceptually and practically to acquire the archive and to ensure its accessibility.
Senior Curator (Textile & Wallpapers) and Interim Head of Collections at the Whitworth, Whitworth
Collections Care Manager/Conservator (Textiles) at the Whitworth
Ann French is Collections Care Manager/Conservator (Textiles) at the Whitworth, responsible for the co-ordination of the gallery’s conservators & technicians, as well as the well-being and care of the gallery’s textiles collection. From 2018-21, she was chair of the ICON Textile Group.Senior Curator (Textile & Wallpapers) and Interim Head of Collections at the Whitworth, Whitworth
Amy George is the Senior Curator (Textiles and Wallpaper) and has worked on over 50 exhibitions at the Whitworth. She has curated, published and delivered papers on subjects across the breadth of the Whitworth's textiles and wallpaper collections including ancient Andean textiles, mid-century wallpaper, tapestries, South Asian textiles, and the use of wallpaper and textiles by contemporary artists. Since April 2022 she has been Interim Head of Collections and recently managed the major new acquisition of the ABC Wax archive, the largest surviving complete textile design archive of its kind in the country.Visiting Research Fellow, Manchester Metropolitan University
Dr Philip Sykas is a Visiting Research Fellow at Manchester Metropolitan University, and a Visiting Researcher at the Whitworth. He is known for his study of printed textiles using the evidence of manufacturers' pattern books. He combines historical and object-based methods to understand the meaning of textile technologies readable in the finished fabric. He recently published three volumes of historical resources with Routledge under the series title Pathways in the Nineteenth Century British Textile Industry, exploring themes that have current resonance: the waste textile industries (recycling), the commercial textile warehouse (globalisation), and calico printing (innovation).